Antelope Canyon
Just outside of Page, Arizona there is a series of six slot canyons on the Navajo Reservation called Antelope Canyon. Most people have probably seen a photo of Antelope Canyon’s distinctive orange sandstone formations. Here’s a crazy story: in 2014, a photo from Antelope Canyon sold for $6.5 million, making it the most expensive photo in the world - and it was a black and white photo!
The only way to see Antelope Canyon is to book an authorized Navajo guided tour. I decided I wanted to see Upper Antelope Canyon, the most popular section. To my surprise, even nearly three months in advance, most of the tours were sold out. I was able to snag two of the last remaining spots - they were on a midday tour, and 20% more expensive. Oh, well.
We parked at a designated spot off Highway 98 and squeezed onto one of the distinctive blue trucks, along with a cheerful group from Italy. Our guide, Donovan, announced proudly that we were going to see lots of BEAMS! Our Italian friends were confused until we explained that he was talking about rays of sunshine. (Ohhhh, so that’s why this tour time was more expensive - beams cost extra.)
It was a bumpy, dusty 15-minute ride to the canyon entrance. Donovan explained afterward that he had to drive fast to avoid getting stuck in the soft, deep sand. We were dropped off right near the entrance to the canyon and walked right in. At the end of the slot canyon, we walked up some metal stairs to a shaded ramp that when up and over the rocks, back to the entrance. The ramp was a recent addition (during COVID) that significantly improved traffic flow through the canyon by making it one-way.
Upper Antelope Canyon was stunningly beautiful. There were fascinating curves and colors at every turn, in every direction, especially overhead. And yes, we saw plenty of beams! Here are just a few of the photos we took as we walked through.
It was a good tour. Donovan gave us tips for getting better photos with our smartphones, and even took some photos of us and for us. He was a great guide, and his love for the canyon was genuine. BUT…it was not the awe-inspiring experience I was hoping for. Upper Antelope Canyon is about half a mile long, and we were probably in it for 30-40 minutes. There were probably 20+ tour groups of 12-14 people moving through the canyon with us during that time. I was distracted, trying to take photos before we were told again to keep moving. There was no time to contemplate what were seeing, and any feelings of awe were fleeting.
Still, I’m very glad that we took the tour, and I’m grateful that the Navajo Nation allows tourism on their lands. If we return to Antelope Canyon, I’ll choose one of the less popular sections. I’m willing to skip the beams if we have more time to absorb the beauty and feel the awe.
