Arches Part 3 - Take a Hike
We left the Fiery Furnace energized and ready to hike and see more arches! We drove to the northernmost trailhead and refilled our water bottles. Steve was still wearing those old hiking boots, and this time the sole of his right boot started to separate. So he did a quick repair with duct tape, and we hit the trail.
Devil’s Garden Trails
Our first major arch sighting was not quite a mile from the trailhead, and happened to be the biggest arch on the continent. Landscape Arch, more than 300 feet long and 75 feet high, could span a football field! It was an awesome sight (yes, a good dose of awe). One section of the massive arch was quite thin, with a distinct crack next to it. We knew that there had been a big rock fall here in 1991 (someone even captured it on video), and we wondered whether Landscape Arch would still be around for our hypothetical grandchildren to see.
We continued on the Devil’s Garden trail past Landscape Arch, and this is where things got really interesting. The “trail” vanished, and we found ourselves walking at an angle on tilted sandstone slabs, clambering up boulders, and balancing on high, narrow ledges. Those ledges were unsettling, because there were steep drop-offs on both sides, and seemingly straight ahead as well. Yikes! It was nerve-racking, but also exhilarating, because there were gorgeous vistas all around us - hoodoos, towers, and rock fins, against the backdrop of the snow-covered La Sal Mountains. To avoid getting lost, we watched for small arrows mounted on metal poles - the Arches version of a “trail.” Everything went well until we reached a narrow ridge near the Double O Arch, an exposed area that was extremely windy. Just one strong gust could blow us right off the ridge. We decided not to push our luck, and after admiring the Double O Arch for a while, we turned around and enjoyed the “hike” back.
Delicate Arch Trail
We knew the Delicate Arch Trail would be difficult, and hot. We also knew that we couldn’t leave without seeing the world’s most iconic arch. After yet another duct tape boot repair (on the left boot again - guess the glue couldn’t hold up under all that hiking), we hit the trail.
We were too focused on our goal to pay much attention to the historic markers near the trailhead. After a few barren switchbacks, we found ourselves on a wide expanse of bare rock stretching up, up, up. It was quite steep, and the lack of shade made for a challenging climb. Hikers heading in the other direction encouraged us to keep going. Finally, the landscape changed, and we were once again on a trail. We walked up a long, curving ramp, turned the corner, and BAM! There was Delicate Arch, posing in glory against a snowy mountain backdrop. WOWOWOW! We sat for a while in the natural sandstone amphitheater and gazed in wonder. Then we walked over and stood under the arch. It was so very big, and we were so very small. But that’s the point of awe, isn’t it? To humble us, to fill us with joy, and to help us put ourselves and our lives in perspective. This amazing, AWESOME place was a fitting grand finale for our memorable day in Arches National Park.
Afterword
Of course, our day didn’t end at Delicate Arch. We hiked back down the big rock, stopped briefly to see the Wolfe Ranch and the Petroglyphs, and returned to our car. Then we drove to the “Lower Viewpoint,” and (somewhat reluctantly) walked up another trail. The arch was quite far away, and very small - not nearly as wondrous as when we had been up close. Still, it was nice to have experienced it both ways. We also enjoyed driving “topless” as we left the park. Features looked different in the late afternoon sun. The golden light enhanced the otherworldliness of the place.
Final tally: 32,000 steps, 16+ miles, 2 duct-taped boots, several new rock-clambering skills, and countless birthday memories and huge doses of awe.
