Central Market of Valencia

Mercat Central de València (Central Market of Valencia) is one of Europe’s largest and most beautiful markets. With its mighty domes, vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows, and colorful Art Nouveau aesthetic, it’s no surprise that many call it a cathedral for food lovers. Grocery shopping here is not a chore, it’s an adventure! As our family’s CFO (Chief Food Officer), Steve visited Central Market at least twice a week. I tagged along occasionally, to take photos and help choose desserts.

The building was constructed 1914-1928, on a site that had been an open-air market since 1839. The designers were Barcelona-trained architects Alejandro Soler March and Francisco Guardia Vial. The beautiful roof covers about two acres of space for vendors and shoppers. Large windows on the walls and at the base of each dome let in plenty of sunlight.

The market was intimidating at first, but as we learned our way around, I began to appreciate the visual spectacle. There were hundreds of stalls (260+) selling fresh produce, meats, poultry, cheese, baked goods, spices, condiments, and prepared foods.

The endless array of local produce included huge tomatoes, elegantly slender eggplants, beans with unfamiliar names, and lovely mushrooms. The famously sweet oranges were ready to be juiced on the spot. Fun fact: “Valencia” oranges are named after the city in Spain, but were developed in California.

At one side, a smaller pavilion was dedicated to fish and seafood - including live eels! I read that the vendor will prepare the eel for cooking right in front of you. I haven’t seen anyone buy an eel yet, so I can’t confirm whether that’s true. As Ogden Nash wrote, “I don’t mind eels. / Except as meals. / And the way they feels.”

Most tempting of all were the pastries, both savory and sweet. We took a selection of them home, and they were muy rico!