Flamenco in Madrid

There seems to be a debate about whether one should see flamenco in Madrid or Seville. People say that el duende evolved in the bars of Andalusia (a region in southern Spain), so the flamenco in Seville is more “authentic.” I decided that for newbies like us, a “touristy” flamenco show in Madrid would be a good introduction to the art form, and then we’d have a basis for comparison when we saw flamenco in Seville.

There are many tablaos (venues for flamenco) in Madrid’s historic center, so I chose one with good reviews and tried not to overthink it. Our tickets included one drink, which turned out to be an enormous glass of sangria. We were seated in a small cave-like room where the tiny stage had barely enough room for five chairs. It was very intimate, and every seat had a good view. I was relieved to see there was a wire holder for my sangria.

One of our ushers gave a brief introduction to flamenco in both Spanish and English. We learned, to our surprise, that flamenco originated in India. She spoke too quickly for me to grasp much more. Then the lights dimmed, and the show began!

There was a cast of six: three musicians playing the guitar, the cello, and the “cajón” (a wooden box that the musician sits on and slaps with his hands like a drum); a singer; and two dancers (one female, one male).

The program alternated instrumental solos with dances. The music’s pulsating rhythms were energizing. The dancers’ shoes had wooden heels, so that their rapid footwork really resonated on the wooden stage. I was particularly impressed by the female dancer’s passion.

It was a short show - barely an hour long - I didn’t even finish my sangria! It was an entertaining performance with excellent music and dance, and an enjoyable introduction to flamenco.

Note: After the show I did a little research on my own. Flamenco has a rich and fascinating history. Romani people migrated from India to Andalusia in the 16th century. That region already had a centuries-old music culture merging Arab, North African, and Sephardic traditions. For many years, flamenco was very unpopular in Spain. It wasn’t until the mid-20th century that it became a national and global sensation. Now Flamenco is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. I look forward to seeing more flamenco (and learning more about it) in Seville.

For more info, see The Complicated History of Flamenco in Spain

For video clips from the tablao we visited, see Essential Flamenco