Royal Alcazar of Seville
It started as an Islamic citadel built in the year 913 - well over one thousand years ago. Through the centuries, it became a complex of walls, palaces and gardens, continually expanded and rebuilt. Rulers lived there and conducted government business there - Muslim until 1248 and Christian thereafter. Today, the Real Alcázar de Sevilla (Royal Alcazar of Seville) is a fascinating hodgepodge of architectural and decorative styles. For me, walking through it felt like time traveling without a map and out of chronological order.
I was excited to share this adventure with Amy. It was still raining, but thankfully we weren’t as soaked as we had been for our tapas tour the night before. It helped that our tour group was small (just five people); our guide Carlos led us to places where we could stay dry. We entered through the Lion’s Gate, where security was strict (passports were required).
At the Sala de Justia (Room of Justice), Carlos pointed out the 14th century exterior wall made with repurposed Roman stone; adjoining it was a 12th century wall with arches. See what I mean about time travel? Inside, the upper walls were covered with intricate plaster decorations, Islamic designs except for the shield of Alfonso XI, a Christian king. Through an open (but blocked off) doorway, we could see the oldest surviving portion of the Alcazar - the 12th century Patio del Yeso. It was a small courtyard with a shallow pool and delicate arches topped with carved plaster in a lacy sebka pattern (our guide called it “fishnet”).
Next, we leaped forward a couple of centuries and entered the Casa de Contratación (House of Trade), a royal agency that operated from this section of the Alcazar from 1503 to 1717. The House of Trade controlled the flow of goods and people between Spain and the Americas, collected taxes, and managed the official (and secret) map of Spain and its territories.
The Admiral’s Hall is still used as a conference space. A huge oil painting called The Last Moments of Ferdinand III the Saint dominated one wall. Our guide Carlos showed us some rather macabre photos of San Fernando’s incorrupt body, which lies in a glass casket in Seville Cathedral and can be viewed once a year on his death anniversary, May 30. He warned Amy that she might have nightmares, but she doesn’t scare easily.
The Hall of Audiences had a gold artesonado ceiling and red walls with the coats of arms of Spanish navigators. This room was also used as a chapel where the navigators would pray before embarking on their voyages. Above a marble altar was a famous painting, The Virgin of the Navigators. Under Mary’s outstretched arms are Christopher Columbus, King Charles and other notable men. Behind them are the shadowy figures of indigenous Americans being converted to Christianity. If you’re curious, there’s more info HERE.
It was time to rewind a few hundred years and visit the Palacio Mudéjar o de Pedro I (Mudéjar Palace or that of Peter of Castile), built in the 1360s. The son of Alfonso XI, Peter I was a Catholic King who supported an Islamic Sultan (Muhammad V of Granada). The palace was a gorgeous example of the cultural exchange that took place during their alliance. Mudéjar describes the style of decoration developed by Muslim artisans who remained in Iberia under Christian rule.
The Patio de las Doncellas (Courtyard of the Maidens) was stunningly beautiful. A promenade with multifoil arches and lacy sebka plasterwork bordered a rectangular garden. On each side of the long reflecting pool, orange trees were planted three feet below the promenade, offering guests a better view of the blossoms and fruit. Amazingly, this lovely sunken garden was hidden under a marble floor for centuries, and was discovered and restored just twenty years ago. (Game of Thrones fans may recognize this courtyard from scenes in Dorne, like this one.)
The Salón de los Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors) was tall room with a domed ceiling. Every inch of the walls and ceiling was richly decorated. The effect was spectacular! Anyone entering this room would be in awe of the wealth and power of Peter I.
We jumped forward in time once again, this time to the 18th century. Adjacent to the Palace of Peter was the Palacio Gotíco (Gothic Palace). It was built in the 13th century, renovated in the 16th century, and then significantly rebuilt after the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. The result was an interesting mix of features from different styles, all in one building: Gothic vaulted ceilings, lower walls covered with Renaissance-era ceramic tiles, and an ornate Baroque exterior.
The Chapel seemed almost plain, compared to the one in the Hall of Trade.
The Tapestry Room had an odd map showing Africa at the top and Spain and Italy on the bottom. (If you’re curious, read THIS.)
The Vaults Room, had windows looking out over the gardens. The skies were blue by this time, but alas, the gardens were still closed that day due to the rainy weather. We had to settle for a tantalizing glimpse.
As we left the Alcazar, I felt tired, but I also had a longing to return for another look at this stunningly beautiful and unusual place.
A few thoughts:
Christopher Columbus has a controversial legacy, but he’s lauded as a national hero at the Alcazar (and also, as I would later see, at the Cathedral). It makes sense that Spain would regard Columbus differently from the Americas, but it would be nice if the sites (and tour guides) offered a more nuanced portrayal of the man.
The mishmash of different styles and eras was a bit disorienting. But that was all part of the charm of the Alcazar - it has always been in use, and therefore it endured a thousand years’ worth of updates. (The upper rooms are still an official residence of Spain’s royal family, making the Alcazar the oldest royal palace in Europe.)
I was awed by the splendor of the well-preserved Mudéjar decorations and what they represented: a Christian appreciation and high regard for Islamic art. It’s no wonder that the Royal Alcazar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
