The Silk Exchange
In 15th century, Valencia was a major producer of silk and enjoyed a golden age of commercial prosperity. The Llotja de la Seda (Silk Exchange), known locally as La Lonja (a shortened form of its Spanish name), was built starting in 1482 as a place for merchants to conduct their business. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Outside, the building was Gothic, with arched windows, decorative stonework, a crenellated roof, and even some gargoyles. We entered at the rear of the building, through a pretty courtyard with orange trees.
The Sala de Contractació (Trading Hall), also called the Hall of Columns, was magnificent. Tall twisted columns, like majestic stone palm trees, held up the vaulted stone ceiling. This was where merchants gathered to conduct business, trading for silk, precious metals, and spices. A blue band running around the upper part of all four walls had a golden inscription in Latin, translated as follows:
“I am an illustrious house, built over fifteen years. Come, taste and see, fellow citizens, how good business does not lie, does not break promises, and does not commit usury. The merchant who acts this way will overflow with wealth, and in the end, he will enjoy eternal life.”
It was a reminder to all that fair and ethical business practices were enforced here, enhancing Valencia’s reputation as a desirable hub for commerce.
On the upper level was the Cambra Dourada (Golden Chamber), a place for the mercantile and maritime court. It had a gorgeous marble floor with a three-dimensional effect, and a coffered wooden ceiling lavishly decorated with gold leaf. The ceiling had been salvaged from the old city hall building - we marveled at how well it fit here. Like the Trading Hall, the Golden Chamber displayed the city’s wealth and sophistication.
As we prepared to leave the Silk Exchange, our tour guide Sofi pointed to an unusual gargoyle on the corner of the building: a nude woman (or at least, her top half). She said that the gargoyle helped visiting merchants by pointing the way to the red-light district. Even if it isn’t true, it’s a great story!
