Triana
Amy suggested that we visit Triana, a neighborhood famous for the production of pottery and tile, just across the Guadalquivir River from the Casco Antiguo. The weather apps (which we have realized are almost always WRONG about Seville) promised less rain one day, so we decided to walk over to Triana.
We walked across the Isabella II Bridge (also known locally as Puenta de Triana), admiring the view despite the cloudy skies.
At the western end of the bridge was the Triana Market, where every stall had its name attractively displayed on ceramic tiles. It was still early for lunch by Spanish standards, but there were already many people happily feasting on fresh mussels and clams, and paella. Everything looked delicious!
We left the market and wandered down San Jacinto, a pretty street lined with residential buildings and restaurants. We walked as far as the Church of Saint Jacinto, whose prominent feature was the trunk of a once-iconic centennial ficus (fig) tree. The 110-year-old tree had been nearly twice as tall as the church before an “extreme pruning” in 2022. Apparently there is an ongoing debate about whether the tree is really dead and should be replaced.
It had started to rain again, so we made our way back to Triana Market and had a leisurely lunch indoors. We drank “QuadalquiBEER” and a tried variety of tapas (empanadas, pizza, quiche, rice). Everything was muy rico (very tasty).
When the rain had tapered off, we ventured out again to see the tile and pottery that Triana is known for. Most of the beautiful tiles we had seen around Seville - including the amazing Plaza de España - had been made in Triana. There seemed to be an endless string of shops selling ceramics. Tiles reproducing patterns from the Royal Alcazar were quite popular, and there were jugs, bowls, and plates of every possible shape and color. We especially liked the clever dish for serving olives - it had a small compartment for pits. The Triana Ceramic Center, looked interesting on the outside, but it would have to wait until a future visit.
When we’d had enough shopping, we walked along the river on Betis Street, enjoying the view. From this (west) bank, we had a great view of the Casco Antiguo, and there were several restaurants with big outdoor patios. With the sun finally shining again, we walked back across the river on the San Telmo Bridge.
On this side of the Guadalquivir, there was a wide pedestrian park. We walked past the Gold Tower, a military watch tower with twelve sides dating back to the 13th century. At one time the tower was an anchor point for a large chain that would block ships from going upriver. We also walked past a life-sized replica of the Nao Victoria, the first ship to circumnavigate the globe (1519-1522). It was hard to believe that a ship so small could sail around the world! And on top of that, the replica ship had completed a similar trip (2004-2006). (In case you were wondering, Magellan launched the voyage, but Elcano completed it. You can read the story HERE.)
It was lovely walking along the river in the sunshine. When were back at the Triana Bridge, we stopped in for a look at the Barranco Market. It was more upscale than the other market, with plenty of mouth-watering dishes on display, and a lovely seating area. We weren’t hungry yet, so the Barranco Market would. have to wait until another day.
We all agreed that we’d like to return to Triana. It seems like a neighborhood that Steve and I would enjoy for a month on our next trip to Seville.
