Zion Part 2: Take a Hike
We had only one full day at Zion National Park. Fortunately, we were staying at Zion Lodge, so we were already in the park. The shuttle buses made it easy to reach trailheads that were quite far apart. So we managed to squeeze several hikes into one day.
West Rim Trail to Scout Lookout
The National Park Service classifies this as a “strenuous” hike: 4.2 miles return trip, with an elevation change of 1,000 feet, and long drop offs. I’m glad I didn’t know any more than that before we started hiking; if I had seen a picture of the famous “Walter’s Wiggles,” I might have been afraid to try.
I’m happy to report that It was the very best kind of hike - challenging, interesting, and rewarding. The trail had several distinctly different sections: long switchbacks, then a quiet canyon, then the wiggles. There were spectactular views of the canyon at every turn - many doses of awe! And since we got an early start, it was comfortably cool, and we were in shade most of the way. We sat for a while at Scout Lookout to enjoy the view and have a snack, shooing away some bold chipmunks and a very fat squirrel. We were proud to have made it all the way to Scout Lookout, and Steve decided he wanted to come back and do it again in 9 years (that’s when he’ll be 70 years old).
Note: We didn't have a permit to continue on the trail to Angel’s Landing, but we could see other hikers pulling themselves up the steep rock face using the chains. Maybe they should call that trail “Where Angels Fear to Tread.”
Shorter Hikes and Old Boots
After hiking back down the West Rim Trail, we continued on Emerald Pools Trail. With the sun now high in the sky, this trail was hot. There were some nice views “downcanyon” of the Virgin River. The trail was narrow, and crowded, and there were many steep stone steps. Honestly, the lower Emerald Pool was a disappointment - not much of a pool, and definitely not green in color. We turned back instead of completing the trail. But we did see a (sleeping) rattlesnake!
We rode the park shuttle to the Visitor Center and then hiked the Pa’rus Trail to the Human History Museum. There was construction all along one side of the trail, but there were some nice views along the other side. And it was nice hiking along the Virgin River.
Steve’s left hiking boot came apart somewhere along the Emerald Pools Trail. This is funny because the same thing happened to him ~15 years ago when we were hiking Great Smoky Mountains National Park with the kids. Fortunately we were able to ride the shuttle back to the Lodge, where he did a quick repair with the Gorilla Glue stashed in our car. He also put a roll of duct tape in our backpack. I made a mental note to insist that he replace his hiking boots more often in the future.
Riverside Trail
Our last hike of the day was at the opposite end of Zion Canyon, so we rode the park shuttle again. The Riverside Walk followed along the Virgin River until The Narrows. At that point, the only way to go further was to hike IN the water. Now, The Narrows had been closed all week due to strong currents and high water levels. It had just opened that morning, and a ranger informed us that “the water was 44℉ and chest deep.” (Whose chest, I thought? Steve’s chest is about eye level for me.) Anyway, we chose not to hike The Narrows, but many others were more stalwart. It seems the smart way to do it is to rent special equipment (canyoneering boots, neoprene socks, and wooden hiking stick). We were happy to stay warm and dry, and enjoy the beauty of the Riverside Walk. Water seeped from the cliff face, and there were hanging gardens with showy flowers blooming. It was an easy, lovely stroll at the end of a long day of hiking. Final tally: 30,000 steps, 15+ miles, one glued boot, and innumerable doses of awe.
TO BE CONTINUED…
