I had a feeling I would love Turkish cuisine, and I was right! All across Turkey, we ate VERY well. In Istanbul, excellent food was everywhere. From street food to taverns to upscale restaurants, we tried and loved it all.
Ten days was barely enough time to scratch the surface of Istanbul’s vibrant restaurant scene. But we did discover some favorite places that were top-notch, and worth returning to on our next visit.
Tershane was on the rooftop of the Momento Hotel in Karaköy, near the Galata Bridge. We will always be grateful to Erdinç, our first guide in Istanbul, for sending us there! Traditional Turkish mezeler and grilled kebab were beautifully presented and delicious, the service was attentive, and the sunset views of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus were outstanding. Though it was “fine dining,” the vibe was casual, and the prices were reasonable. We loved Tershane so much that we returned with friends, and splurged on some really great wine. (Tershane is a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant.)
Develi was a historic restaurant in the fashionable Nişantaşi neighborhood in Beyoğlu. Our second guide in Istanbul, Fatih, chose this place when we invited him to join us for a meal. Inside, it was a ritzy place, but we sat outside where it was more casual. We stuffed ourselves on elevated Turkish cuisine, and Fatih shared his pro-tip: topping the lahmacun with the abagannuş. That combination was fantastic, but for me, the best thing was the melt-in-your-mouth grilled lamb tenderloin. Develi was pricey, but totally worth the splurge. They have several locations, and I can’t wait to go back.
Deraliye was the first restaurant we tried in Istanbul (other than the hotel breakfast). Steve found this wonderful place in Sultanahmet not far from our hotel, and we enjoyed an impromptu dinner there with fellow nomads Tom and Georganna. Deraliye specialized in “Ottoman Palace” cuisine. I loved the balon bazlama (balloon bread), served warm and topped with toasted sesame seeds. The cherry soup was tasty and unusual, but the star of the show was the goose kebab, wrapped in crispy phyllo. Everything was served with flair! I would love to go back and try more dishes meant for a sultan.
Speaking of dishes, “the one that got away” was the testi kebab, an Anatolian stew of lamb and vegetables cooked in a clay pot. Deraliye made this folk dish more special by serving it flambé, and it was quite a show. I’m determined to go back and try it. (Deraliye is a Michelin Recommended restaurant.)
We tasted a variety of wonderful Turkish foods on our tour with Culinary Backstreets. On our last full day in Istanbul, we returned to two spots from that tour, to have more of my favorites.
I wasn’t sure why I loved the signature dish at Beşaltı Kirvem Tantuni so much until I realized it reminded me of a rolled-up Mexican taco, especially with the heat of a pickled pepper in every bite. There are plenty of great Turkish street foods, but for me, the tantuni is the best.
There were bakeries selling baklava all over Istanbul. But we knew that Karaköy Güllüoğlu would have expertly made, authentic Turkish baklava, with crispy layers of buttery phyllo and the perfect balance of fresh nuts and sugar syrup. We tried plenty of Turkish delight, but I much preferred baklava. And if we’re ever anywhere near Galataport, I’m going back to the OG baklava shop, Karakoy Güllüoğlu.
