Lima Eats
Before this trip, we knew that Peru was famous for ceviche and pisco sours. We knew we had much more to learn.
To better appreciate Peruvian cuisine, it’s useful to know the different cultures that have influenced it. To start, there are the ingredients native to the Andes, such as potatoes (more than 3,000 varieties!), corn, and quinoa. Then add three centuries under the Spanish empire. Then consider large populations of immigrants who arrived from China, Japan, and Africa in the late 19th century.
Lima was the perfect place for us to start learning more about Peruvian cuisine, as it has somewhat recently become famous around the world for its “fusion” gastronomy. Lima restaurants Central and Maida were ranked #1 on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023 and 2025, joining the ranks of global icons like El Bulli, The French Laundry, and Noma. We didn't feel the need to eat at such lofty (and expensive) places, but we found excellent restaurants right in our hotel’s neighborhood of Milaflores.
With just 48 hours in Lima, we had time for only two restaurant dinners. So we focused on trying as many classic dishes as possible, at places near our hotel.
Punto Azul was just one block off José Larco Avenue, the touristy boulevard leading to the cliffs. We started with pisco sours, and found that we could specify the brand of pisco as well as the size. We both chose Portón (recommended by our tour guide). I played it safe with a Classico, and Steve went for a Doble. Then we ordered two piqueos, thinking they were starters/appetizers, and a main dish. To our surprise, all the dishes were equally large! Also, we ordered octopus, but received calamari - it didn’t matter because we loved it anyway. We ate far too much, and had zero regrets. It was all “Buenaso” (So Delicious)!
Panchita was in the opposite direction from the cliffs, in a quiet neighborhood on the far side of a small park known as the Milaflores Oval. The huge dining room was beautifully decorated with native handicrafts. This was popular spot for parties and special occasion dinners, and the staff serenaded diners with drumming and singing. We ordered our pisco sours, and Steve decided to try a catedrál. Well, my classico was the size of a doble, so Steve’s was the size of a pint! We decided to order the Piqueo Doña Pancha, a platter with a sampling of six classic Peruvian dishes. We didn’t love every piqueo, but we’re glad we tried them all. Our favorite dish was dessert - a favorite specialty from Lima called picarones. ¡Super-Buenaso!
Peruvian classics we’ve tried so far:
pisco sour
ceviche
anticucho
lomo saltado
causa
choclo
huancaína (sauce)
papa rellena
ocopa (sauce)
picarones
My favorite food so far is choclo, the Peruvian corn with big juicy kernels (similar to hominy). Steve’ favorite food so far is ceviche. We both love picarones!
A few lessons learned:
Peruvians love sweet foods. Pisco sours are more sweet than sour.
Think of piqueos as “shareables” instead of starters, and order less food next time.
Don’t fill up on the addicting canchita, the roasted corn kernels that may be served as a free snack before the meal.
If you’re in Lima on a Friday or Saturday night and want to try a popular restaurant, make reservations.
If you’re a foodie, spend more than 48 hours in Lima.
