Spice Bazaar

The Spice Bazaar was just a block from our hotel. Although almost as famous as the Grand Bazaar, this market was newer (built in 1660) and had just 85 shops. Erdinç explained that since the Grand Bazaar was closed on Sundays, and cruise ship tour groups preferred to visit just one market, the Spice Bazaar now had souvenir stalls, and the Grand Bazaar had spice stalls.

In addition to spices, this bazaar was the place to buy dried fruits, nuts, and sweets. Erdinç took us to a shop called Hayfene, where photos of a visit from Rick Steves were proudly displayed. We tasted all kinds of things - lemon-roasted pistachios, “energy balls” of carrot halva coated with pumpkin seeds, and Turkish delight. It was all delicious, and we couldn’t resist purchasing some goodies. The staff had it all delivered to our hotel so we wouldn’t have to carry anything. Nice!

I was surprised to see a charcuterie shop in the Spice Bazaar. There were cheeses wrapped in hairy goatskin, and Erdinç arranged for us to taste one. Steve liked it, but it was too strong and funky for me. There were many varieties of suçuk (soo-jook), Turkish sausage. Some mysterious yellow shapes were actually salted fish roe coated with beeswax. Erdinç called it Turkish caviar.

Outside the Spice Market, more stalls lined the streets. Hanging overhead were strings of dried tomato and eggplant skins, meant to be reconstituted and stuffed with mince meat or rice pilaf. There were lemon-stuffed olives, fresh pink pistachios, dried figs and dates, and walnuts galore.

I definitely liked the Spice Bazaar more than the Grand Bazaar. Afterward, it occurred to me that we didn’t learn about the spices! We’ll just have to go back.