Treme
Treme (trə-MAY) is one of the oldest neighborhoods in New Orleans. We had been watching the television series Treme (outstanding, by the way), so we naturally wanted to do some exploring there.
We started with lunch at Dooky Chase, with its art-filled dining room. It was awesome to think that Duke Ellington, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., and Presidents George W. Bush and Barack Obama also ate here. Chef Leah Chase died in 2019, but the restaurant is still run by her family. Our gumbo, fried chicken, and jambalaya were delicious.
After lunch we took a walk through the neighborhood. Treme is bisected by Interstate 10 - a reminder that it was the victim of an “urban renewal” project in the 1960’s. Today, it’s a colorful neighborhood that includes Louis Armstrong Park - but there’s still a tall fence around the park.
The highlight of our afternoon in Treme was the Backstreet Cultural Museum, a small but remarkable place focused on New Orleans’ African American street culture. We learned about jazz funerals, Social and Pleasure Clubs, and their “second line” parades.
We were especially impressed by the collection of Mardi Gras Indian suits. The Big Chief suits are the largest and most elaborate. Each one is designed and hand sewn by its owner over a period of a year or more. Dental floss is used to sew beads, feathers, and stones onto canvas or cardboard. One suit can cost thousands of dollars and weigh up to 100 lbs! The suits are worn during Mardi Gras and for an annual event called Super Sunday.
Treme is adjacent to the French Quarter, on the other side of Rampart Street. Be sure to make time for Treme on your next visit to New Orleans!
