Lunch at Fahriye’s House

Fahriye still lives in her childhood home in Ortahisar Village, and hosts visitors for lunch. Out on the terrace, shaded by lush grapevines, she served us home-cooked white beans, rice pilaf, and eggplants stuffed with minced meat. (I was surprised to find that I loved the eggplant dish. Why is it that I don’t enjoy eating eggplant at home?) For dessert, we had halva made with grape molasses, and fresh grapes from Fahriye’s vines.

After lunch we sat in a living room lined with cozy divans, admiring the beautiful carpets that Fahriye had woven herself. She can no longer weave - her eyesight is failing and her hands are arthritic - but she showed us some macrame bead jewelry she had made.

Ortahisar is one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites in Cappadocia. Fahtiye’s life has changed a lot in recent years. She cannot find anyone to buy her grapes. Most of her neighbors have sold their homes and left. Old houses in the village are being converted into boutique hotels and other businesses to support growing tourism.