Four Days in Mexico City
We stayed in the historic center of Mexico City (CDMX), which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our boutique hotel was in the former Palace of the Counts of Miravalle, a 17th century colonial mansion. The three-story open courtyard had a “roof” that was really the canopies of large trees, trimmed square. The ground level had high end shops and restaurants. Upstairs, the area where we had our breakfast looked out on the green leafy tops of those trees. The grand staircase featured a mural by noted Mexican artist Manuel Rodríguez Lozano titled “The Holocaust.”
We had beautiful weather for exploring Centro on foot. Our hotel was surrounded by beautiful colonial buildings, and just off Calle Madero, a pedestrian only avenue lined with shops and restaurants. Occasionally, a contemporary building or sculpture reminded us we were in a modern city.
At one end of Calle Madero, just two blocks from our hotel, was the Zócalo, aka Plaza de la Constitución, a huge public square bordered by the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace (the President’s residence). This was the site of the exciting opening scene of Spectre, with James Bond fighting villains on a helicopter. Our view of the cathedral was obstructed by scaffolding and tents. Officials were preparing for a free concert starring Shakira, scheduled for the day after our departure. I later learned that 400,000 people attended the show, the largest crowd ever assembled in the Zócalo! (Honestly, I’m glad we missed it.)
About a mile past Zócalo was the iconic La Merced Market, the largest in the city. We took a food tour of this market with a local guide - it was quite an adventure! Read more about it HERE.
At the other end of Calle Madero, about four blocks from our hotel, was the Palacio de Bellas Artes. This was a national cultural center with famous murals and a historic theater, where we saw a performance by Ballet Folklórico de Mexico. Read more about it HERE.
The next day, we took an Uber to the Frida Kahlo Museum (Casa Azul). It was remarkable to see the home and personal belongings of that inspiring artist. Read more about it HERE.
Afterward touring Casa Azul, we walked through Kahlo’s colorful neighborhood, Coyoacán, and browsed the Artisans Market. Most of the stalls sold mass-produced souvenirs, but I found one with intricate, hand-painted papel amate (bark paper).
On our last full day, we took an Uber to the National Museum of Anthropology. It was truly impressive, and we learned a lot about the Mexica (Aztec) and other civilizations that shaped modern-day Mexico. You can read more about it HERE.
After we’d had our fill of the museum, we walked through Chapultepec Park. The Botanic Garden had a variety of desert plants in precise rows, forming striking landscapes. A pool covered with swirling algae had giant bronze insects worthy of a horror movie! We also paused at the Monument to the Boy Heroes, the teenage military cadets who died defending CDMX in the Mexican-American War.
We ate very well in Mexico City, and drank many delicious margaritas! You can read about our favorite meals HERE. But after four days as tourists, we were ready to leave the crowds and traffic and pollution. There are still many parts of this fascinating city to be discovered on future trips.
