Three Days in Cappadocia
After three days in the megalopolis of Istanbul, we were ready for something very different: Cappadocia, a high desert region in central Turkey.
What is the correct way to say Cappadocia? Since locally it’s spelled Kapadokya, I like saying it the Turkish way (kap-uh-doke-yuh) best. But the English pronunciation (kap-uh-doe-shuh) is fine, too.
Cappadocia is famous for its unique mix of unusual topography and fascinating history. Ancient volcanoes blanketed the Cappadocia region in thick layers of ash that compacted into a soft rock called tuff. Wind and water eroded the tuff into unusual shapes that could be easily carved out for storage and dwellings. The Silk Road and other trade routes passed through the region, and it became a hub for commerce. Later, Cappadocia became a place of refuge for Byzantine Christians hiding from persecution.
Travel Day
The flight from Istanbul to Cappadocia was short. We stayed in the quaint village of Mustafapaşa, at Cappadocia Estates - a hotel that was really a group of houses carved into the hillside. Our spacious room had rock walls and a terrace overhead.
We had dinner at Old Greek House, a beautiful 19th century mansion right near the hotel that served homemade local dishes. We had complimentary cold mezes (appetizers), mercimek çorbasi (red lentil soup), and kıymalı gözleme (seasoned minced meat between phyllo pancakes). It was all wonderful.
Day 1
Sunrise Balloon Ride
It was spectacular, unforgettable, and exhilarating! And it was totally worth waking up (super) early for. Read more HERE.
Meskendir Valley Hike
After a leisurely breakfast and rest at the hotel, our guide Togay took us on a hike. After seeing the unusual rock formations from the high above in the balloon, it was great to see them up close. Read more HERE.
After a late lunch with Togay and Mahmut, we called it a day. We returned to the Old Greek House for another excellent dinner, and then tried to catch up on the sleep we had lost.
Day 2
Turkish Breakfast
We seemed to be the only guests at the hotel, so instead of a buffet we were served a lavish breakfast at our table.
The Three Beauties
Togay took us to see a famous trio of fairy chimneys that looked like hoodoos wearing hats. Wind and water had eroded the tuff faster than the much harder basalt on top of it. Eventually, the stems will become too thin to support the basalt, and it will break and topple.
Göreme Open Air Museum
This Byzantine center for monastic life had hidden rock churches with remarkable frescoes. Read more HERE.
Lunch at Fahriye’s House
We had lunch at the home of Fahriye and learned about life in a historic Cappadocian village. Read more HERE.
Ozkonak Underground City
We explored a multi-level underground city where a surprisingly large number of people could hide for months while enemies raided the region. Read more HERE.
Paşabağ and Devrent Valleys
We made quick stops to see some of Cappadocia’s most popular rocks. Read more HERE.
We had eaten so much that day that we weren’t hungry for dinner. I snacked on the sweet plums and apples that Togay had brought us from his orchard.
Day 3
We started the day with another lavish Turkish breakfast. Then Togay took us to a few of his favorite places, to round out our last day in Cappadocia.
Cappadocia Refrigerators (“I have a hill”)
As the road wound between hills, Togay pointed out a string of unmarked wooden and metal doors, large enough for vehicles. These were entrances to underground warehouses used by modern-day companies to store oranges and other citrus fruit. The caves stay cool all year, natural refrigerators that need no electricity. The citrus fruit is grown about 170 miles south of Cappadocia, on the Mediterranean coast, and can be kept in cold storage this way for up to nine months, getting even juicier over time. On the hilltops we could see clay pipes sticking up from the tall, dry grass - chimneys allowing fresh air to circulate in the storage caves below. Togay said he once asked a friend where his wealth came from, since he never did any work; the response was, “I have a hill” - the friend rented out storage caves!
Soganli Valley Hike
In this scenic valley, we explored rock churches and dwellings that were unrestored and unprotected. Read more HERE.
Sobesos Ancient City
We saw an excavation in progress at a 4th century Roman settlement with a bathhouse and church - the only site of its kind in Cappadocia. Read more HERE.
Keşlik Monastery
This large and less-visited monastery provided more glimpses into monastic life. Read more HERE.
Our last stop of the day was Ürgüp, a small town whose old stone houses had already been converted to restaurants and boutique hotels. We took a quick stroll through an alley lined with shops and a square with cute electric cars for guided tours. We had a late lunch with Togay and Mahmut at a cafe specializing in pide - flatbread with toppings baked in a wood-fired oven, a Turkish version of pizza. Delicious!
That evening, Steve and I returned to the Old Greek House one last time and tasted a couple of new dishes: kıremıt (eggplant, potatoes, and mushrooms in garlic tomato sauce) and mantı (meat dumplings with yogurt and garlic sauce, served with an assortment of dried spices). Everything was excellent! We understood why Old Greek House was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand.
Our three days in Cappadocia were a marvelous mix of scenic hikes and intriguing history. The balloon ride was phenomenal! Our guide and driver were excellent. I would do it all again if I could.
